Refashioned in Tweed

10-05-2015 Full 1 10-05-2015 LS 1 10-05-2015 Full 2Vintage Tweed Skirt (similar here & here)  Ann Taylor Everyday Turtleneck  MIU MIU Rhinestone Cat-Eye Sunglasses Vintage Topaz Brooch Set (similar here)  Express Skinny Patent Belt (similar here)  Kate Spade Patent ‘Licorice‘ Pumps 

Tweed itself has remained as a mainstay garment affixed of a tailored perspective; arriving as a fabric among royalty and aristocrats. Many, if not all, will see a garment for its outer persona not for its predictable or complex history implication which might be interwoven with its evolution. What I have found throughout my fashion studies was the interlocked conjunction that each garment stands as a pillar of stature from a moment in time or place. You see, garments and their designers have a particularly solid linear which consists of a vision.10-05-2015 Full 3 BNW 10-05-2015 LS 2A fabric which carries an enriched history is by far, tweed. From its emergence as a textile of choice which dates back to the 1820s and 1830s, credited to the celebrity of Scotsmen Sir Walter Scott and Lord Brougham which both favored bold tweed trousers. Much like the mid-Victorian period, tweed had been made popular by countries of sportswear due to its warmth, breathability ad cultural currency, creating a world of benefits.

Refashioned at the turn of the 19th century, tweed adopted its masculine style to an elite of sartorial and socio-political coding with a new wave of women garnishing oneself in a conservative characteristic also known as haute couture. In 1924, French fashion design and style icon Coco Chanel redesigned such a fabric commissioning her fine collection of tweed dresses, jackets and skirts presenting the Chanel ‘Look’. In plotting how to ensemble such an attire  one should be styled informally with a classic black turtleneck made from a cotton based material nothing ribbed or embossed, for a more mild approach a silk loose fitting blouse which flows over the midsection is subtle yet elegant. Overall, I find stylizing tweed evokes its enriched history with a geminate of its once traditional yet high couture style.10-05-2015 Full 4

A Historical Shaping with ElizaBeth Rohloff

Banana Republic Double-Breasted Trench  Station-to-Station Dress c/o Bitter Root Vintage  Bespoke Millinery Design by ElizaBeth Rohloff  Emerald Rhinestone Earrings (similar here)  Vintage Leather Gloves (similar here)  Umbrella (similar here) Corso Como Black Patent Pumps  MAC Ruby Woo Lipstick

In 1980, Elizabeth Rohloff set forth with the Portland Civic Theater Costume shop while she attended her last year of formal University education. What seemed to convey as a fluke while part-time employment was in need, in retrospect transformed into what Rohloff states had prepared her for a freelancing career. “I had worked together with a team to construct garments for all sizes in addition to learning about historical garments, which all perfected my skill-set.” Through a duration of five years as a lead costumer to the in-house designer, including an array of guest designer’s preparing for a number of onstage musicals being produced.9-28-2015 Middle 19-28-2015 Full 2Over the last nine years as the title “Educator” became affixed to “Milliner” which professionally became a focal point to Rohloff’s design efforts. While a celepe to a solid career which making use of an array of new profound techniques interlocked with an enriched history of garment making since her start. “Musical theatre is based in history and hats held prominence in the past. One of the men in the shop had the opportunity to create these hats. He and I became fast friends; I watched him work and learned about buckram and sizing techniques. Then, many years later I started to play with fabric shaping from flat to 3-D,” reminisces Rohloff, from her influential connection to the art of millinery.Yet the design process in Rohloff’s words is “a curious thing” as it strikes from out of the blue at any moment. “Many times I’ve had a vivid, colorful dream’s with characters fully dressed. This seems to happen most when I have been in a social setting with large groups of people or immersed in watching a historical movie series,” she explains. While images from fashion spreads are typically used as a fodder to the design process, Rohloff has built a collection from knowing her fabrics. From draping techniques to a love for natural fabrics and texture, these key elements play a role in creating a millinery design. Approximately five years ago, bubbling out of the Project Runway theme which seemed to be ramparting throughout Portland, a Fashion design Camp had been created for those who adore the fashion scene. Being hired on to assist, Rohloff had discovered a middling organization with youthful children literally running with scissors. With this single experience, it was brought upon herself to create her initial Fashion Design Camp. With a natural progression for the art of millinery and wearable designs it has today provided returning students an understanding to the fundamentals of design basics.
Through the evolution of Rohloff’s career one thing has been revealed as she states, “The process of becoming an artist has been an inside job; recognizing one’s talent, acquiring the skills, being confident and open enough to put it out to the world and finally combining all in a fertile environment with enough time and money to gift an investment in the next generation.”

A Blarney Base of Style

Banana Republic Boat Neck Dress (similar here or here)  Mod-Inspired Swing Coat Expressly Made for SEARS (similar here)  Prada Round Baroque Sunglasses  Kate Spade NY ‘Licorice’ Pumps  Vintage Patent Handbag (similar here)

As the mercury begins to drop, the thought of keeping warm approaches with the crisp autumn breeze, an ensemble that consist from both a vintage aesthetic undertaking a youthful subculture can be easily emphasized with the usage of a beautifully constructed piece of outerwear. The 1950’s housed a variety of styles with most coats extending to a greater length, whereas a middling amount sat right around the hip which included fabrics and textiles of camel hair, wool velour, tweed and cashmere. Tailored neatly to fit close to one’s body and through the waist, making for a blarney fit with a noticeably wider base. Depending on the particular design, buttons from the chest to the waist accented the additional room for movement that with, no pun attended, would “swing” with a woman’s movement. Far from a customary hourglass silhouette partaking to an idea of a dress which was worn underneath a coat, which can be followed through the Victorian era.

An antidote to the relentless association of day-wear sophistication can somehow be touched through the vintage adornment of a garment expressly made for SEARS. Not be mistaken with traditionally styled coat dress that resembles the effortless ease of a shirtwaist dress. Appliqued with a piebald diagonal striped pattern which are completely wound around creating a point of an optical illusion in addition to complimenting an ‘A line’ shape. Paired with a rayon open back boat neck sheath, the rounded edges find a comparison to the curved lines accenting the three button closure. While a play on curvature is pushed forth with the elegant presence from a nero baroque-inspired sculpted arm, with the modern touch of a Prada accouterment makes for a distinctive noteworthy image.


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